The Fascination with Balinese Temples and a Journey to the Magical Pura Batukaru

Beautiful thatched tiers of Pura Ratu Shakti rising above the waters of Lake Batur and the mountain landscape of Trunyan.

Balinese temples are the sacred abodes of the gods. They are both spiritual sanctuaries and aesthetic marvels, uplifting the mind and soul of any devout seeker. Even the most uninitiated visitor is often left speechless, overwhelmed by the temple’s wonders, its profound silence, and the aura of unfathomable mysteries. Balinese temples resonate with the living presence of gods, goddesses, and spirits, reflecting the depth, identity, and vibrancy of Balinese culture. They are extraordinary places of mass divine connection.

Often nestled within lush landscapes, Balinese temples harmoniously blend into their verdant surroundings, appearing as architectural masterpieces that embody a heritage of sophisticated aesthetic norms and refined taste. When delving into their intricate shapes, particularly those of the ancient temples, one encounters symbols and designs expressed through towering meru shrines, split gates, guardian statues wrapped in patterned cloth, Garuda carvings, and stone reliefs portraying mythological scenes, celestial beings, and age-old narratives, revealing and concealing the spirituality and deep mental frameworks of Balinese culture.

Weathered brick temple walls beneath towering banyan trees in Sanur.

Entrance to Pura Agung in Sanur, where a brick gateway, guardian statues in checkered cloths, and lush greenery mark the threshold into the temple’s inner world.

Historically dominated by red brick and terracotta, a direct inheritance from ancient Majapahit, regarded as Bali’s cultural and religious predecessor, Balinese temples developed distinct architectural styles, building materials, and decorative details across different regions of the island. Over the past decade, a sweeping trend toward rebuilding temples in black lava stone has markedly transformed their aesthetic character, with many temples increasingly taking on a more imposing black appearance. Despite these changes, many older terracotta temples endure, and safeguarding these architectural remnants remains essential for preserving Bali’s layered cultural heritage.

High in the hills, the innermost sanctum shrine of Pura Lempuyang Luhur, approached through mist, forest, and an ascent of 1,700 steps.

However, fathoming the essence of Balinese temples, the lighthouses of Bali’s ancient civilization, is perhaps more a matter of direct experience than theory. The Balinese are practitioners rather than preachers, living their spirituality through daily rituals, offerings, and ceremonies, and demonstrating a profound connection to their faith. This continuous practice provides a more straightforward path to the empowering fountain that lies beneath, where the quiet blessings of Betara-Betari (gods and goddesses) elevate the mind and offer a refreshing uplift to the soul and life as a whole.

Observing the daily ritual carried out in almost every Balinese household—the preparation and distribution of ‘canang sari’, a colorful square offering dish (10×10 centimeters) made from sacred flowers and plants, alongside a smaller triangular dish ‘segehan’ handwoven from banana leaf strips, containing white and yellow cooked rice and colorful petals—provides insight into the uniqueness of the Balinese way of life. This ritual highlights their unceasing interaction with the world of invisible beings, seeking support and protection through constant remembrance and offerings.

Trance mediums ascending through the old gate of Pura Agung Petilan during the Pengerebongan ritual in Kesiman, wearing ancient ceremonial costumes reserved solely for this rite, as the temple space becomes charged with unseen forces.

Procession along the Sanur shoreline, with ceremonial umbrellas, flags, and offering paraphernalia accompanying the presence of Balinese deities.

Temple ceremonies are a perpetual feature in Bali, taking place across the island at all times in its countless temples. The modest daily offerings of canang sari expand manifold during the biannual temple odalan anniversaries and other grand ceremonies. These events feature magnificent processions, where men and women, dressed in beautiful ceremonial outfits, accompany temple deities beneath striking traditional Balinese umbrellas, along with a myriad of offerings. Such occasions create unrivaled visual spectacles, all set to the sounds of the gamelan, the traditional Balinese percussion instruments. The unpredictability and spontaneity of each ceremony, despite being passed down through generations, makes every event feel refreshingly new.

Every medium to large temple in Bali is a living example of the island’s rich tradition of courtyard design, an integral element of its ancient architectural system. Most temples typically feature at least two or three courtyards. The outer courtyard, known as jaba, serves as a space for temple festivals, dance performances, and other communal activities. The middle courtyard, jaba tengah, acts as a transitional space from the outer to the inner sanctums, often containing shrines dedicated to land spirits where prayers are offered to greet the “hosts” of the temple.

Festive atmosphere during the temple anniversary (Odalan), with Balinese arriving for prayers in the innermost courtyard of Pura Agung in Sanur.

From here, one enters the innermost heart of the temple, the JEROAN, through a richly carved and imposing wooden entrance gate of striking narrowness. The steep stairs leading upward, together with the gate’s tall and slender form, evoke mythical visions of a celestial pathway to heaven, a spectacular sight that seems to give physical form to the idea of a stairway to heaven.

In the innermost courtyard, a great deal of activity unfolds throughout monthly, biannual, and annual festive seasons. During these periods, constant prayers, offerings, and trance rituals take place, with a steady flow of beautifully attired worshippers arriving until late. Despite the bustling activity, the inner courtyard retains an atmosphere of peace and sanctity enveloped in the rich fragrances of offerings and aromatic incense, creating a deeply serene and heavenly ambiance.

The sacred water temple on the slopes of Mount Batur, seen from the inner courtyard, with a tree wrapped in red and white poleng guarding the sacred space.

It is difficult to determine which aspect of Bali’s rich temple activities offers the most captivating experience, whether visual or auditory. Is it the vivid imagery of temple decorations, the many shrines and deity symbols adorned with fragrant offerings, or the natural grace of the Balinese arriving for prayer in traditional garments? Perhaps it is the finely crafted performances, where sacred dances unfold to the resonant, metallic sounds of gamelan instruments, Bali’s grand orchestra of gongs. Or perhaps it is the spontaneous theatrical plays featuring Topeng masks, rich in humor and parody, dramatic turns, and fierce duels, bringing to life otherworldly characters through hours of storytelling. Or it may be the long and intricate processions of deities, their golden effigies carefully balanced on the heads of men and women as they make their way toward the nearest beach for ritual purification, a powerful display of Balinese devotion to the divine.